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I love the saw, I have been a Jet owner for years and bought this saw after a fire. Since the motor sits lower on this saw, it is rather difficult to attach a false bottom to collect dust from the entire saw base. However, I am frustrated with the plastic dust collector port under the saw blade. It disconnects each time I tilt the saw, not from the hose pulling away but the angle of the blade disconnects the plastic parts that came with the saw. After a year I still have saw dust everywhere with with a 1200 cfm Jet dust collector. Think twice if you want a clean shop.
I think the brackets that hold the wheels need to be stronger. I bought this saw a few months ago.after reading the reviews here. Thank you.The manual is a little vague in places as mentioned. Luckily, I don't have to roll the saw far because it's pretty hard to roll. Especially if you are moving up from a smaller saw as I did. I had the most trouble putting the stand together.
They don't seem to give way but I do notice the metal of the legs bows somewhat. They were right on for both the pros and the cons. Not exactly sure what the deal is. Once the saw is on it, that thing isn't going anywhere.My only negative about this saw, so far, are the wheels and brackets for them. As suggested, I beefed up the legs with angle iron. Not that big of a deal since I've added the angle iron though.As for cutting, this thing is a dream.
The fence is true as is the mitre guide.All in all, I'm very pleased and would recommend this saw highly.
Period. Just order an Incra 5000 miter guage and sled, and can't wait to put it to work.Jet is baby Powermatic.
It just works. I've own this saw for over five years now and have built everything from birdhouses to cabinets.
I have the square fence and it works great. Period.
Get the mobile base. There is no better table saw then Powermatic.
You can get a Lowes or Home Depot special at your local box store or you can spend the same money and get a Jet.
when I am not using it, I roll the saw about two feet, no turns, over to the side of the shop so it will leave more room. If you are going to make a similar sawing center, watch for the hangy-down motor in your design and adjust your height calcualtions by plus 3 1/2". Otherwise the saw is accurate, the table is level and substantial and easy to work with. Just be careful if you roll it.UPDATE: Jet had a customer rep and a technical services rep contact me first thing on Monday morning. Three days ago, I lifted the non-caster side up about one inch - enough to put the weight on the casters to roll. the cobbler's children have no shoes). Jet has a great warranty, but you have to go through all the hoops in order to have them look at it. Do not roll it on the casters, even though they are part of the leg design.
Whoever decided to put a fence with a rounded top on this or any saw should be ashamed. I was able to hold on to it and bring it up to balance. Plenty of power. If the leg is not capable of holding the weight while it's rolling, why put a caster on it. Just try to get a jig to sit square on it.
I've had this saw about 9 months and am satisfied with it. Most people upgrade the fence and miter bar on just about any tablesaw that I've seen, regardless of the brand. Solution: I installed a 2x4 "skirt" for the saw to sit on, leaving about a 3 1/2" space below the saw to accommodate the motor while encasing the saw as well. Since I own several Jet machines and have recommended Jet to everyone who's asked, I hope they will do something to smooth my feathers.When I finish repairing it, I'm going to build a rolling platform for it before I roll it anywhere. Just folded under. I've done it many times.
I had a time trying to manuever this thing against something that would prop it up, eventually making it to the assembly table. Well, the LEG COLLAPSED below the lower brace. It does however, set and hold like a rock, so for just the rip aspects it's adequate. I wrote a letter to Jet, but they haven't replied yet. The tech guy told me a couple of things to look for and assured me that if the new leg attaches easily and is lined up, then the entire base is alligned and there is no danger. They located my order and cancelled all costs and shipping, then expedited it out. The 207 pound saw almost went over and crashed on it side. Problem solved.
Without a lot of detail, I took the saw off the factory stand and set it on the cabinet. Lose the fence and get a real one. KUDOs to the Jet people, my confidence has been restored.UPDATE 2: The leg issue forced me to build a table saw center that I've had designed for about two years (e.g. I still am gun shy of rolling it, but a roller platform will eliminate that threat.
The leg is $14, but the shipping is over $19. Here's the update - The saw's motor pokes out about 3 inches below the bottom of the saw. I just ordered a new left leg to replace the collapsed one rather than go through the process required to return it. But I have a major complaint and warning to owners of this saw. My design called for a solid top so the motor caused the saw to lean.
This is a dangerous situation. I can't say how long that would take. The factory stand is open and the motor doesn't sit on anything. Also, don't use anything less that 3 inch casters.
Just make sure that you have the blank secure to the table (I used the rip fence and it worked fine) and pass the blade through at a good but not too slow rate, to avoid burning the material. I love my new little Jet, but I to found that they were proud of the dado insert ($44), and a zero tolerance was unheard of for this saw. I to came upon the phenolic material idea, and it works great. The 1/8' material is a viable replacement for the 1/8" mild steel stamped plate that comes with the table. All in all I really love this saw. Instead of using the 1/4" material, I used 1/8" and it is strong enough, and requires only flush bit router work to make fast blanks.
Allen socket screws are easy to find at local hardware stores. Being a retired aircraft mech. The phenolic will drill and tap fine for the leveler set screws ( I used a Drill and Tap set from Greenlee to make the 10/32 holes in one single pass). A 24" x 24" sheet from McMaster Carr was enough to make three, with some material to spare. I used the blade pass technique the other reviewer used to make both a zero and a dado insert. Once I solved the insert problem and welded up a stand alone outfeed table with a transfer roller top, I was making precision firewood in no time.
For the price, I think it's one smooth cutting deal.
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